Paroissien’s in Paris

        
But first a touch of Christmas - the Champs Elysee with         Dancing girls at the Trocadero - and the
the Arc de Triomphe in the distance                                            temperature was about 2 degrees!!!

A view of Passy - the 16th arrondisement from the top of the  Eiffel Tower…

It was cold up on the top too…

I am in the midst of packing up our lovely apartment – and it’s quite incredible how much one can accumulate over a 9 month period – but I have decided that if we need another case I will walk down the street to the Bagagerie and just buy one.

 

And if there is an economic downturn in other parts of the world, it doesn’t appear to have hit Paris yet – yesterday I wandered down Blvd Haussman to Galeries Lafayette,one of the Grand Magasins  – it was absolute bedlam, both inside the store and outside on the pavements – in fact the Louis Vuitton store inside was packed.  I walked outside and  was carried along by the crowds for 50 metres or so – watching in awe  as other people hopped over the railings to get out of the crush.   But the atmosphere was happy with lots of children clutching balloons on sticks.

 

Paris is looking so beautiful – the lights are everywhere and there is such a festive feel about – and it feels such a long way from the terrible events in Mumbai – we remember India with much fondness (we have had 2 wonderful family holidays there) and think of them in their sorrow and sadness.

 

So this is our last week  – I am looking forward to a few lunches  – light relief from packing.     I will meet Ian’s PA Monique on Thursday – she has been such a support, booking tickets and taxis and generally organizing Ian, and my lovely Aussie group - I shall bequeath my Paris books to them.

 

It has been a magical year – the challenge has been the language, but the city and all the people who have touched our lives here have given us a most amazing and wonderful experience.   And of course we have had so many visitors – over 50 friends and family have come and either  stayed with us or maybe just had coffee, lunch or dinner - it has been a joy to show them the many facets of Paris we have come to know and love so well.

I shall look forward to touching base with all our Paris friends – both French, Aussie and English when we return for a few weeks next May, but Paris will forever be in our hearts.

In the meantime

Meilleurs Voeux and Bonne Annee

Barbara

PS    There will probably be a PS…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

David and Fred receiving their trophies…..                    Running around the Butte Chaumont…
David, Fred and Lazar…

Dinner at the apartment…..                                         The cheer squad for David and Fred… - 2 degrees!

 

The last week has been great fun with David and Andrew here – we’ve been to the top of the
Eiffel Tower, walked all around Montmartre, visited the Musee D’Orsay and Musee Marmottan and of course burnt the credit card with some shopping.     

 

But the highlight had to be David joining his French friend Fred in an 8 km race around the Butte Chaumont, to the east of Paris – a fundraiser for Amnesty International.      The temperature was 2 degrees when they set off at 10am and by the time everyone had finished, the snow was falling – very lightly but nevertheless snow – how amazing.

And of course Fred and David came first – and both received the biggest silver cups – see photo – and strict instructions to take it back to Melbourne for the Melb. Uni Athletics Club which is where they met – my packing is a challenge, let along with a cup!!!

And another highlight was having dinner with Fred and his wife Mathilde and their children Lazar and Sybil in their Paris apartment – they had spent a year in Melbourne so great fun swapping stories of living in each other’s countries.   

 

We had an early family Christmas Dinner and now Andrew is back in Cornwall getting ready to travel with Beth to Morzine in the French Alps where they will work in a chalet for the winter season – he tells me they don’t get paid much but they do have a lot of fun snowboarding etc. etc.     Then they hope to go to South America for the summer – what a life.

 

David is at present seeing friends in Amsterdam and London and will be back in time for Christmas with us.

So, December is just upon us and Christmas is in full swing  -  more next blog…

Barb 

 

For Melbourne ABC radio listeners, you will enjoy this story.     I have been following Jon Faine and his son Jack’s overland trip from
Melbourne to London with much interest – what an exciting story they have been weaving for us, travelling through places most of us can just find on the map.
 

So last week I thought I would pop in a comment – on their website – just for fun.  Nothing too erudite of course.   I actually thought that his staff in Melbourne would be editing the  comments which appeared on his website – wrong, my comment appeared, and not only that, but because my own blog address is on the bottom of my normal email page, my blog site appeared on his website – unbelievable!!!  -  well, anyway got a few hits that week!!!    The joys of technology!!!

And if you haven’t been following his website, it is very interesting.   It’s http://www.melbournetolondon.com

 

At the Flea market in Paris - Les Puces
Colleen and Tori - contemplating …..

 

I was very much looking forward to our longtime friends  Iain and Yvonne Howie coming to visit, together with Colleen and Bill and daughter Tori – but the best laid plans of mice and men….. Yvonne picked up a virus and was confined to home in the UK. 

 

However the Smiths and Paroissien’s  decided that this was the day to visit the huge flea market on the outskirts of Paris – the Marche de St-Ouen or Les Puces.    Apparently there are 2500 stalls – and they sell everything – as one of my books described it, “it’s great fun to drift around and take in the medley of wares – from the shoddiest junk to the most gold-encrusted treasures”!!   and we even found some bird cages, luckily too big to even consider taking back to
Melbourne – Ian was very relieved!!

 

Once again much walking and talking – Coll especially loved the small streets and laneways around St Germain de Pres, the Ile de St Louis with its great variety of interesting little shops, and Notre Dame of course – in fact we arrived when an organ recital was about to begin - imagine our surprise when the first piece was the music for God Save the Queen -  unfortunately we couldn’t tell from the program who the composer was or the name of the piece – nevertheless quite a highlight – and it was lovely and warm in there too.

Meanwhile Ian introduced Bill to our local café and the local beer – enjoyed by all.

So Colleen and Bill will be heading back to New Zealand in a couple of weeks, while we are heading back to Melbourne for Christmas - I wonder when we will all touch base again - but, hooray for email/

 

             Last touch of autumn                                                                    

Life in Paris – the Butcher, the Furniture Removalist and the pick pocketers…..

 

Wandering down my market street early yesterday morning, having picked up some fruit and vegies, a huge truck, the street barely wide enough and all the shop keepers hastily winding in their ‘verandahs’ – parked outside my Boucherie – and as you can see from the photo above, proceeded to deliver the meat – and the biggest cow you’ve ever seen, hanging from a hook.

So, the meat is lowered by some mechanical method, and then the butchers proceed to carry it inside – and there is my boucher –Monsieur Gilles.    He is my personal butcher – we have at least 5 words between us – he has two English words, ie Le Kangaroo and I have my usual bit of meager French, ie Je voudrais (I would like) and then I point.     But we get on with a laugh and charades very well.  I shall be so sorry to bid him au revoir.

 

And then there are the furniture removalists – because the apartment buildings have stairwells too narrow for most furniture, everything is carried up on the outside of the building and through the French doors – works really well, except for all the traffic which goes into tooting and yelling mode when they block the road.   But, c’est la vie!!

 

And then my
Paris ‘experience’ on Monday afternoon.    Had been out with my  friend Colleen – we met in Auckland when we were 18!!), exploring Paris, had had afternoon tea at Laduree in the Madeleine, caught the Metro and whilst changing trains at Trocadero, we were jostled a bit getting on the train – strange young girl pushing me, so I just pushed back to get on the train – wondered what what going on, then just as the train doors were closing, she jumped off with a smirk on her face – my heart sank, and a quick look at my handbag confirmed that the Pick Pocketers had indeed opened the zip and removed my wallet –unbelievable - what could I do – nothing really.      If I had been quicker I could have jumped off the train and started shouting, but of course one can think of all these things later.   

It was nice that Colleen was there – at least someone to share my woes.     So back to the apartment and sometimes detailed planning pays off.     We have all our cards, mobile phones, etc. registered with Secure Sentinel – so, one phone call to Sydney – (it would have been 2am there) and they were all cancelled instantly.    And not only that, they will automatically be reissued – in fact a temporary Amex card is ready today – 3 days later.   

It’s not just the inconvenience but must admit the ego does suffer somewhat from these experiences – as my Aussie/Paris friends said, it’s so easy to become complacent.    C’est la vie, no one was hurt – and can only hope Karma catches up with them all one day!!

 

Well is is Beaujolais Nouveau day today  - when the new vintage is released and people rush all over Paris to try it out – so we are about to go to a little wine shop in the St Germaine area – Le Dernier Goutte and try out the new vintage.

 

Tomorrow the boys arrive – David is now on the plane – and Andrew is trying to decide whether he should buy some new shoes – he was wondering if his thongs/flip flops may not be suitable for Paris if the forecast is correct and it is 5 degrees and snow/sleet on Sunday!!  I suggested he might try some of those socks with toes in them – with this thongs of course!!!

 

A bientot

Barb

Covered passages, or what we would probably call arcades, started to appear in
Paris in the late 18^th century, and construction continued until half way through the 19^th century.    They were  developed for both their commercial activities, and the ‘emerging capitalist, bourgeois taste for flanerie or strolling’, with the more elegant constructions being referred to as ‘Galleries’.

 

There were originally 37 passages throughout Paris, the more exclusive ones  being constructed with glass, or glazed  roofs,  mosaic tiled floors and much wrought iron and metal frameworks, whereas  wooden constructions and skylights were used as cheaper constructions.     In a Paris once lacking sewers and footpaths, horse-drawn carriages, crowds, dust and mud on rainy days, these passages were a primary asset in attracting Parisients to stroll through these shopping galleries, theatres, dance halls, gaming rooms and cafes.   

 

 Today, there are only 17 Covered Passages left in Paris, the others having been demolished for other developments including railway stations, etc.  

A cold but dry day, my friend Jane and I  met for our coffee at the corner café, studied the maps and books, and set off to explore as many of these as possible.

 

Some of the Passages were very beautiful, glass roofs, exquisite tiled floors, circular rotundas  with exclusive Art Galleries, striking and eye-catching specialist shops from florists to china to haute couture and lovely little cafes.

 

However, in some areas,  the Passages were quite unpretentious with wooden roofs and skylights – and filled with quite fascinating shops such as plastic mannequins or dummies, bolts of fabrics for the rag trade and many shops of indeterminate type.   One of our highlights was finding the passage Brady in the Little India part of Paris – and the exotic Indian grocer where one could buy everything from Pears Soap to dates from Tunisia, and including of course every spice imaginable.

I think the Gallerie Vivienne is perhaps the best one in Paris - near the Palais Royale - it has an air of serenity and social standing!!

 

And today,these same passages still attract Parisiens to their cafes, restaurants, their remarkably wide variety of shops and many specialist art galleries, antique book shops

 

And as a footnote,  in Australia, Melbourne has the magnificent Royal Arcade, with its beautifully restored glass roof, Gog and Magog, and tiled floor,  and the marvellous Block Arcade, off Collins Street, with a similar construction.   Sydney has the Queen Victoria Building – a very grand affair with its double storied construction – an amazing building.

So a wonderful day, exploring Paris with a friend - another memory to be treasured.

Au revoir - a bientot
barb 

 

Outside Notre Dame Cathedral - Remembrance Day, November 11th

 

Remembrance Day and a public holiday in
France, and with it being the 90^th anniversary of the signing of the Armistice, it was a big occasion.

 

Whilst the memorial service is usually held at the Arc de Triomphe, this year the ceremonies  took place in the Somme, up at Verdun where so much of the action took place, with President Sarkozy and Prince Charles and Camilla attending the ceremonies and laying wreaths.   

And whilst a very peaceful place today, it must have been an extraordinarily tough time for all the soldiers – from both sides.

 

Back in Paris and the British Legion (our equivalent is the RSL I think) and the British Council held their annual service at Notre Dame Cathedral.

 

I wanted to arrive early and walked to the metro with plenty of time only to find it all locked up – they were repairing the line this weekend!!  

What to do – okay, this is where taxis are invaluable and in no time I was at Notre Dame – and only E10 – saved my sanity really.

Being early I was able to sit on the aisle, up near the front – behind all the VIP’s.    And what a wonderful service it was, beginning with a very slow and solemn procession down the centre aisle with all the different groups carrying their flags – the Guides and Scouts, the Australian Army, the US Army etc. etc. etc.

Service was in English with a couple of good rousing hymns – and an opportunity to remember the freedoms we have today were fought for long and hard on the battlefields of the Somme.

 

Walked out of the Cathedral to see all the tourists behind barriers – I felt a bit like royalty really – so I photographed the tourists whilst they were photographing us!!!  - see photos above!

 

Was chatting to a lady nearby – she mostly spoke French and I mostly spoke English – so we went for a cup of tea – to The Tea Caddy, would you believe, and chatted for a couple of hours – she was very interesting – lives between Paris and Geneva but loves London best.     But the funniest was when we ordered the scones – they didn’t look in the least like scones – as my friend Alicia said, they’ve got the dough and just flattened it out – and then they toasted it!!!  

But a lovely finish to a quite special day –

A bientot

Barb

Could it only be in Paris?

Burglar Codes – you’ll be wondering what on earth this is about.

Browsing through a small booklet called the Paris Insiders Guide – for International residents and visitors.

There, under the Insurance heading was a whole page on Burglar Codes – they often stake out houses and apartments before breaking and entering.   They leave chalk marks next to the entrance to the building, and apparently it is important for us to learn how to interpret these – and then to rub out – obviously!!!

I can’t ‘draw’ the signs here – but they are squares and diamonds, circles and squiggles and cover such areas as:    Kind-hearted woman, flirtatious woman, offers work, women on their own, flat/house belongs to a police officer, beware of the neighbours, nothing of interest, easy access, dog, etc. etc. etc. – quite amazing – and whilst I keep my eyes skinned, I must admit I haven’t seen any chalk marks which resemble any of the above.   I did watch a man drawing on the road outside Le Bon Marche one day (fancy department store) – then watched him walk to his van, whoops, the Marie de Paris – the City Council.  I don’t think he was a problem!!!

 

 

Then there is Fur – as you know you rarely see anyone in
Australia wearing furs these days – took me ages to find a funny shop in Chapel Street who would even take my grandmother’s fur coats – and then only  on consignment.   

Well, here, it is all the fashion – full length coats, cute little jackets, the sleeveless vests and even cravats (which thanks to my friend Julie Levine, I now possess!!)   The wildlife conservationists must shake their head in bewilderment and dismay.

And just to continue -  trying to find a home for my grandmother’s coats – which are still languishing in Chapel Street (after 2 years) – well I am going to retrieve them when I return and bring them back to Paris – there is a lovely little old lady who sells The Big Issue at the local Monoprix – in all weathers, and I reckon she will appreciate a big warm fur coat – or she may sell it of course, but hey, c’est la vie!!

 

 

And an interesting note on  some of the contradictions in French Society – ie Political Correctness.

I have just discovered why they don’t have a public holiday for Good Friday – it’s to separate State from Religion, apparently changed a few years ago when more and more Muslims were settling in France.

And a little bit of background history; as you may, or may not know, Algeria was not only a French colony, but was actually considered a Department (or State) of France - and presumably its citizens were therefore considered French - not sure if they had French passports, but they certainly were able to move to France.
But the French do celebrate their many wars, - and in particular Armistice Day on November 11 - see next blog.
 They also celebrate All Saints Day – November 1^st – which sounds to me like a religious day -  so work that one out!   And much like Australia - the shops are open and every one goes shopping!!

And I am off to do some shopping now - the Howie’s and Smith’s arrive tomorrow for the weekend - so looking forward to seeing them in Paris.
(I met colleen in Auckland when we were 18 and Yvonne when I worked in the Midlands - eons of years ago too!)

Au revoir
Barbxxx

 

Ian is working in
Madrid for a week so thought I would make the most of a wet and cold Paris and join him for the weekend.

First challenge was getting to the airport by public transport, ie not just the metro, but the RER – the suburban rail network.

Not a problem at all, train to Denfert Rocherau, then found the RER station – ah ah, the aeroport is mentioned on the board which is a great start.   It’s always interesting when travelling on the trains – lots of announcements come over the loudspeakers – and always in French, so it’s a matter of watching the reaction of the other passengers – if they don’t react, don’t worry!!

 

On arrival at Charles de Gaulle Airport, you walk about 2 kilometres, well probably not quite, but it feels like it, to the terminal.    But nevertheless so very efficient and easy – and a lot cheaper than the taxi, if you’re not carrying bags.

 

Madrid – we are staying in the business district, close to PwC offices and about a half hour bus ride from the city centre – and it is a beautiful new and very modern hotel – like wrought iron chairs which you can’t sit in. 

First morning we did the ‘hop on hop off’ bus – always helps to get a feel for the city – its size, where the more important places of interest are, ie the Prado Museum, Palace, Cathedral, etc.   Great view from up top, notwithstanding it was soo…… cold.

 

Madrid is of course an old city although most of its architecture seems to be 18^th century – and the Palace has 2500 rooms – and next to the Cathedral of course.  Very pious people – in those days.   Lunch – would you believe, in an Italian café eating pizza!!!

 

There are lots of Plazas – with the main one being Plaza Mayor – huge square surrounded by 3 storey buildings. 

Then tootling along on the double decker bus, but what does Ian spy – Massimo Dutti strikes again – this is Ian’s favourite menswear store and he felt it was important that he at least have a look as the whole Massimo Dutti organization is Spanish  – he told me he has now been to their stores in Milan, Geneva, London, Paris, Zurich, Amsterdam, Singapore and now Madrid – unbelievable.!!!     And if he can’t find anything for himself, there will probably be something for the boys – or even just a scarf, after all, everyone needs lots of scarves!!!!

So one of his little ‘obsessions’ attended to, well, our shopping done anyway, off we go for dinner – another surprise – no one eats until at least 10pm – the bars were choc-a-block and as Ian said, with tongue in cheek, if I was under 30 we’d be okay, we’d be heading for the bars!! However….. after making a drink last for an hour, we managed to find a place which started serving at 8pm – full of non-spanish people I suspect, but they did serve a great paella – we had to have that of course!!!

 

Sunday, back to Plaza Mayor for coffee and croissant, before heading off on a guided walk around Old Madrid – and what luck, there was a special procession and mass in the main square – November 9 is the Madrid patron saint’s day, so great celebrations – with a Cardinal too to say the mass.   The procession was interesting – lots of women in black with those beautiful black lace mantillas and a decorated carriage holding the Madonna I think – and smelling of lilies.

 

Madrid was originally a Walled City – the north were the Christians and the South the Moors  from North Africa , who were of course Muslims.  And prior to that the Romans, Visigoths and lots of Legends.

 

The afternoon we walked over to the Prado Gallery – Ian was not convinced we were going to a gallery – thought it was a handbag shop – I wish!!!   Luckily checked the queue we were in – whoops, that’s for the special Rembrandt exhibition, but why oh why don’t they put up signs!  - change queues but not too long to wait and as everyone in the line was English speaking, I filled in the time quite easily!!    Fabulous paintings of course – especially Goya, Rubens, Titian etc. etc. etc.

 

 

Dinner that evening was a challenge. 
Thought we’d found some interesting places earlier in the day – but no, they were either not open (Sunday) or were not serving yet!!   Sat down at a place which looked okay, well it had another couple of people eating, and after much deliberation, we chose the lamb – lamb chops for me and roast spring lamb for Ian.     With potato scallops please.    Greens?  What are they!!     Well, what a shock when a meals arrived – see photo above.  

Ian actually had what appeared to be a full leg of lamb on his plate, only it was very small – what sort of lamb was it.   And my lamb chops, well, there were 14 of them – I kid you not!!!    Each one of them had probably a square inch or half inch of meat on them, but again, what was the size of this lamb!!   And where were the peas – or sauce, or even a lettuce leaf!!!   Oh well, such is life.     And the wine was great !!!

Actually Ian and I had an interesting discussion then on an Australian leg of lamb.   I maintained that I could get three meals for a family of 4 from one leg – and some sandwiches thrown in.  After I mentioned the roast meal itself, then the second night sliced cold meat with mashed potato and peas, I would then do a cottage pie – or shepherds pie depending on your family tradition.

Ian laughed and said our boys didn’t know what cottage pie was – so a few SMS’s went off – the boys very sensibly ignored them!!!

 

I must admit I went to bed that night dreaming of a plateful of fruit for breakfast the next morning.

 

And what does one discuss at dinner, after 30 years of marriage – we discussed baton changing in the relays – I used to practice in the back yard with Andrew!!   I maintain that you should be able to hold the baton in either hand, whereas even the Olympic relay runners, grab the baton with one hand and then swap to the other.   Ian on the other hand pooh poohed this idea, and suggested that perhaps they could old the baton in both hands – or behind their back!!! – the mind boggles.

 

So a great weekend, I am back to Paris and Ian is working in Madrid and Barcelona for the week.

But before I leave Madrid, my challenge is to find a couple of Real Madrid caps – oh well, I love a good bit of retail therapy!.

 

Back in paris, there is a holiday on Tuesday for Remembrance Day – and it’s the 90^th anniversary of the signing of the armistice, so big celebrations.     Our Mr Sarkozy and Prince Charles (with Camilla) will be up in the Somme laying wreaths, while I am off to Notre Dame for a special service run by the British Legion (equivalent of RSL) and the British council.

 

See next Blog.,….

 

Au revoir

Barb

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As the lightest of mist has descended – like a fairy mist, it hardly touches one, but across the river it surrounds the
Eiffel Tower with a blue haze.

 

I am writing this in the metro as I hurtle  to the bookshop Shakespeare & Co to buy another copy of John Baxter’s latest book “An Immoveable Feast” .    This bookshop was the first English speaking bookshop in Paris, opened by Sylvia Beach in 1928 (I think) and she was the only person who would publish James Joyce’s Ulysses.     It  has long been an important part of the Paris literary scene and if you are ever in Paris, do wander by and have a look – it is just across the river from Notre Dame.

 

Anyway, I digress.   
Wasn’t it great news about Barack Obama – what a lovely young man, and what a challenge he has ahead of him.    I watched his speech, as did millions no doubt, and was so impressed with his oratory skills – now he has the challenges ahead of him.    And one can only hope that he is able to at least start of some of the healing and diplomacy which is needed from such an important country.

But, onto more mundane things….

 

  Yesterday, after my French conversation class at the British (and Commonwealth) women’s club, - and I really am at a loss as to why I actually go as whatever I manage to understand, I promptly forget!!!  And as for my pronunciation, well…..

However I thought I deserved a little jaunt afterwards, so took the metro up to La Defense – this is the business district of Paris – all glass and  high rise buildings.  But of course it has an arch which links it, through its main road Blvd Grande Armee,  to the Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysees, the Place de Concorde, etc. etc.

The arch is the antithesis of the Arc de Triomphe – all glass and squares and angles – and with a very quick lift which shoots you to the top in seconds – unlike the Arc where you have to walk up the myriad stairs to see the whole of Paris laid out before you.  Not something to put on the top of the ‘must see’ list, but still a part of the ‘new’ Paris.

 

I have unexpectedly met a group of Australian girls who meet for lunch every now and again – all here in Paris for short or long periods, working or visiting.     I’m only sorry I didn’t meet them earlier – so lots of lunches before I leave now!!!

And by good luck one of the girls was also going to the British embassy today for the Poppy Day appeal run by the British Legion (our RSL I think).     Must admit I really went to have a look at the British Embassy which is just along from the Elysee Palace – well, it didn’t disappoint.  It is the most magnificent building apparently built for Napoleon’s sister Pauline, in about 1814 (I think)  I would tell you more, but the brochure I picked up is all in French - but I like the photographs!!    The reception rooms are so beautiful with high ceilings, huge cornices, and the drapes are so elegant.    There is even the original bed in one of the rooms, upholstered in pale blue velvet – and in another room, a red velvet throne – I wonder if the British Ambassador uses it!!!

And notwithstanding the building itself, the garden is wonderful – just a little bigger than mine in Brighton – but I did envy them their luscious green lawn – no weed would dare raise its head there and the garden beds full of flowering shrubs and deciduous trees, just dropping their leaves – and of course the odd sculpture or three.   I was only sorry I hadn’t taken my camera - it just seemed, well not the done thing!!
 

And then, another little surprise,  Jane and I both won raffle prizes so went home very happy – stopping on the way at my favourite little department store in Passy - Franck et Fils – which is a smaller version of Georges in Collins Street (that was) for a lovely lunch, and an ogle at all the beautiful Parish fashions.

 

Well Ian is off to Frankfurt today for some work, and then flies to Madrid tomorrow, Friday, for a week – so on the spur of the moment, I have decided to join him for the weekend.  Easyjet is a most amazing airline, it’s efficient, reasonably cheap and I can print out my boarding passes here and don’t need to check in – how good is that.    So I shall go to the airport by train tomorrow – just to see what it is like.    I decided I must make the most of this opportunity – once we return to Melbourne it’s a long long way from Europe!!   I did think it might have been a little warmer, being so much further south than Paris, but no, because it is inland, it is just as cold – 12 degrees tomorrow, so coats and scarves to be packed.

 

I’m getting a little worried about how to get all our stuff back to Melbourne – the Christmas things in the shops are stunning!!

 

Au revoir for now – will be in touch after Madrid.

 

Barb