


With Frances & Finlay McPherson and Linda & Roger Speddy, friends from our time in
Lae, Papua New Guinea in 1983, we set off to enjoy a few days of exploring, tasting, eating, talking and driving around the Champagne area.
We caught the train from Paris to Epernay – about 1-1/4 hours due east of Paris, where we hired a car
Found a small supermarket and stocked up supplies, and then drove to a small, in fact very tiny, village called Oyes to our villa, Aupres de Eglise. (beside the Church). See photo above
It is a lovely old farm house with blue shutters, a huge living area and two bedrooms on the ground floor, then a huge bedroom and smaller bedroom on the 2nd floor – together with a very ultra modern bathroom with a huge free-standing bath and toilet and washbasin in the centre of the room – very swish although with the ‘cemented walls’ we couldn’t decide whether it was finished or not!!! We actually decided it was ‘modern architecture’!! The big bedroom downstairs had its own fireplace - which the boys being boys, decided had to be lit - Frances and Finlay were very warm that night!!!
The living area encompassed the kitchen and dining area and a wonderful open fireplace with a couple of sofas. A long wooden table and chairs was the centrepiece of the room, with lots of shelves full of all the necessities of living – plates, oodles of glasses, breakfast cereals, candles, etc. etc. etc. Whilst slightly rustic, it was very comfortable and warm, lots of hot water and a wonderful atmosphere.
Outside, just past a grove of what looked like silver birches, there is a ménage – what we would call a rotunda, complete with bbq and piles of cut wood – irrisistible to Roger and the boys. And with a herb garden out in the back area, we were well and truly set up for a gourmet feast to go with the champagne.
First day, after a very late breakfast, we decided to follow the Champagne Trail – through very pretty countryside of sugar beet, corn, sunflowers, etc. Moet et Chandon is of course the most well known in this area, but with the tour buses all parked in a row, we decided to give this a miss and headed for a small champagne house – where the owner kindly opened up his tasting room for us after we rang his doorbell. Well, a great find – Champagne Derouillat was its name – and after copious tastings, we bought a few, quite a few in fact, bottles – the challenge will be to get them back to Paris on the train, but hey, where there’s a will, there’s a way!!! – and maybe we will have consumed some of it too!!
A bit more shopping for dinner – including a giant saucisson –a big fat sausage shaped in
a horseshoe and weighing at least a kilo – and it cost E11 (A$19) so it had better be good!! (see photo).
One description from our Scottish friends was that it might be a bit like a French haggis – the mind boggles!!
Well, the guys got the fire going in the bbg dish – only took an hour or so, but we did eventually eat a very delicious meal –especially the saucisson – every scrap consumed and was well worth all the effort of lighting fires etc.
Next day, our driver decided that driving south was the go. First stop was Troyes – a medieval village, 11-12th century. Did wonder if we had come to the right place – it’s only the centre which is medieval, the rest is normal, industrial, commercial, suburbs!! But the centre is a real gem – a smallish area with tudor style buildings and a beautiful old cathedral with a ‘rood’ – a structure built across the cathedral, this one in stone, which separates the clergy in the choir from the lay people in the nave. There are very few left in France as they were mostly built in wood and during the Revolution (1790 approx. in case you’ve forgotten) they were burnt – churches were seen as part of the bourgeoisie.
After a lovely lunch at the local brasserie soaking up the sun and the wine, we headed for Sezanne. Again a lovely village with interesting shops and patisseries etc. – it’s amazing how much effort is put into eating and drinking when on holiday!!
Our last evening – a scratch meal of a potato dish (thanks Linda) and some chicken (thanks Roger) after we found that the restaurant to which we had decided to eat, was actually not open on a Friday night!!!
All in all a great fun few days with good friends, good food and great wine and champagne. And the quote of the day was from Linda, when driving through the countryside – “it’s just like an amphitheatre of vines” – very poetic Linda.
And many thanks Roger, for doing all the driving – was much appreciated by us all.
And if you are looking for somewhere to stay in this region, we very much recommend Aupres de L’Eglise. Website www.aupresdeleglise.com
So next day, back to Paris, and dinner that night – Win and Russell Meares, also ex PNG, joined us. More talking and drinking!!!
Sunday, McPhersons returned to Scotland, and after a bit of Paris exploring, the Meares and Speddy’s came for dinner at the apartment – we have the most terrific fish market so salmon was the order of the day.
Monday, and a quieter day – and catching up on emails, etc.
And so….. another day….